Cycling UK Louth Autumn Camp 2023
Hickling 24th till 27th September 2023:
A traditional destination for the club and we’ve been enjoying this part of the Norfolk Broads for a few years now. The campsite is tucked away in a quiet rural location close the Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s Nature Reserve at Hickling Broad, notable in recent years for the reintroduction of the Common Crane. We hoped we’d see this elusive bird once more.
Originally scheduled for Monday 18th till Thursday 21st September, plans were sadly changed due to stormy weather courtesy ex-hurricanes Lee and Margot, which gave heavy rain and 40-50 mile an hour winds. The camp was in the end rescheduled for Sunday 24th till Wednesday 27th September, hopefully to return in time before ‘Storm Agnes’ was set to bring rain and 40-50 mile an hour winds once again. Rob Cook and Tim Newbery had hoped to have had the company of Steve Croton and John Rickett but they were in the end unable to accommodate the change in dates. Hopefully they’ll be able to attend next time.
Day 1. Sunday 24th September 2023.
Whilst stalwarts John Rickett and Paul Linder were ‘flying the flag’ on the club’s Sunday ride to Kirmington, Tim and Rob headed off for the club’s final camping trip of the year. Both had been feeling decidedly under the weather following booster vaccinations and we wouldn’t arrive at the campsite until late afternoon. Never the less, tents were pitched before the rain arrived and the winds became too fierce. Contrary to the local pub’s website, food had finished being served at the Greyhound and with the strengthening winds likely to be problematic for a campfire we found ourselves at the Wayford Bridge Inn in Stalham. So pleasant the surroundings and following a fine meal (and by now feeling particularly fatigued) we opted for ‘Bed and Breakfast’. Purely for research purposes! Indeed, this would be a fine base for a club visit with ample rooms to accommodate a group.
Day 2. Monday 25th September 2023.
Having enjoyed a ‘Full English’ we returned to the campsite and were rewarded with a fine sunny morning. The forecast was indeed very promising with largely sunny conditions a warm 23 Degrees Celsius. Rob had suggested a ride to the coast and a visit to Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, more precisely ‘Ness Point’, the most eastly on the English coast. Something different.
Our journey would take us in part along a number of Sustrans routes, initially to Hemsby and the Norfolk coast. Hemsby would be familiar with Rob as he once worked here whilst Tim escaped being posted to the Meteorological Office Station launching weather balloons which was located nearby. That’s now a cattle farm!
No trip Hemsby’s ‘Fun Park’ and beach today instead we headed further south enjoying the warm sunshine through Ormesby St Margaret to Caister-on-Sea using Sustran’s NCN 30. Passing by ‘The Centurion’ pub a series of interpretation boards would inform us that the Romans had been here. Indeed, a fort was established around 200 AD acting as a base for a unit of both the Roman Army and Navy.
Following the Sustrans markers in Great Yarmouth became increasingly difficult, especially where we needed to cross the River Yare over the Haven Bridge. So much so that Tim forgot to take any photographic record but we did stop for a break at the quayside where a new raised bridge was being constructed.
It would have been nice to have visited Burgh Castle, a Saxon Shore Fort a few miles away but that would wait another time. Instead, we’d soon be enjoying a well-earned cuppa and snacks at the Storm House Café by Gorleston Pier. Golden sands at Gorleston-on-Sea were delightful and the promenade lined with beach huts looked picture perfect. Seas looked calm and inviting.
A few more miles and we’d reach our main objective, Ness Point, Lowestoft. Perhaps rather more industrial than we’d envisioned and the sea much more turbulent. This is officially the most easterly point of England and the British Isles.
Just along from the Ness is Lowestoft Harbour which seemed rather quiet considering the fine weather and looked a little ‘back end of season’, which of course it was. Historically Lowestoft was a thriving fishing port with over 400 million herring landed every season at the height of the industry. Now it’s recognised as a centre for renewable energy.
A decision now to either head back the same way or perhaps follow a more circular routing through Beccles and Reedham along Sustrans NCN’s. In the end noting that we could take the Greater Anglia Railway from Lowest to Reedham and as it was something new to try, we boarded a late running Norwich train. Lowestoft Railway station had been a pleasant rest-stop and there were information boards detailing the town’s involvement in the Lowestoft Schools Evacuation in WWII. Quite sobering.
The train journey took us through some remote marshland broad with views of the River Waveney a delight. Alighting at Reedham we’d continue our journey on two wheels to Woodbastwick (boasting a brewery!) where Tim had hoped to have taken us to a small foot ferry at Horning. Sadly, the ferry had just stopped operating for the day and we’d need to route through Wroxham instead. Eventually on the quiet rural lanes through How Hill we’d end up back at Hickling about 5.30 pm. A fish and chip van in the village proved too tempting for Tim and he enjoyed a portion of cod and chips back at the campsite.
Nearly 60 miles completed on a two-county tour, ‘flying the flag’ for Cycling UK Louth.
Day 3. Tuesday 26th September 2023.
A more relaxed day was in order and as we noted from the weather radar that rain had enveloped Lincolnshire, we were glad that cloud was breaking with increasing amounts of warm sunshine. Looked like to be another warm day. After a leisurely campsite breakfast, bacon and eggs kindly supplied by Rob, we eventually left to pedal our way to Sea Palling. Sea defence work was in progress but there were still plenty of dog walkers enjoying this part of the Norfolk Coast Path.
Time to continue south to Horsey Mere and Horsey Windpump. We’d visited briefly last year where we were informed by the National Trust Warden that we’d just missed sightings of the Common Crane. This time, the lady serving teas from the cabin said she’d seen them earlier in the morning but that they had now hunkered down in the reeds and out of sight. We’d missed them once again.
We were also approached by a lady cyclist who engaged us in conversation about our bikes, she was riding a vintage Bob Jackson and had taken interest in the Mercian. She informed us that she had a collection of bikes at home and had just ordered the latest and highest spec 2023 Tour de France’ ‘Look’ carbon fibre bike.
Having consumed cups of coffee and slices of bread pudding whilst watching a family of Swallows in the telegraph poles, a meander back to base camp with plenty of time for a visit to Norfolk Wildlife Trusts Nature Reserve. Would Tim spot the elusive Crane? No. However plenty of geese (large numbers of Pink Footed) and Marsh Harrier. For Tim, visiting the reserve is one of the highlights of the camp.
Luckily the weather remained fine for campsite cooking and Rob rustled up a stew with a variety of vegetables whilst Tim had promised to try out packets of Millets Wayfarer rations. Some of Rob’s veg did however help, along with a beer!
Day 4. Wednesday 27th September 2023.
The news was full of the impending rain and strong winds courtesy ‘Storm’ Agnes’ which promised winds of 40-50 miles an hour once again by evening. Tents were struck in good time and we’d leave Hickling (by car) at 8 am. Breakfast was taken at ‘Samuel’s’ at Walpole St Andrew (thanks to Rob) before a ride to Spalding from Fosdyke Bridge. This would be to largely test out part of a route from Boston to Rutland Water.
A ’Byway’ would initially follow the north bank of the Welland to one of a number of pumping stations. A little rough in places but passable and made easier with wider tyres. After just over a mile, we’d be back on metalled surfaces taking us past the ‘Ship Inn’ to Surfleet. The village was once two miles from the sea. The Domesday Book mentions two saltpans operating in Surfleet, providing a valuable source of income. Once surrounded by the rivers Welland and Glen inland and the sea to the east, drainage has always been important and we viewed the current sluices dating from 1879.
Routing past the attractive River Glen we would soon reach Spalding and took refreshment at the Red Lion Hotel where Jimmy Hendrix stayed after Spalding’s famous Barbecue 67 gig which also featured Pink Floyd and Cream. 20 miles for this test and with a few alterations suitable for a club ride.
Arrived back in Louth about 4 pm, the rain falling steadily by 5 pm. Good timing.
